Archive for tutorials
Day five and it’s the first time wearing this recently thrifted skirt. I love the color!
I also love my scarf. Here, look closer and be amazed.
I got the fabric at Cottage Quilts on a trip to Fresno to visit my mom. I love the retro inspired print and it is complemented nicely by the pale blue pompom trim. Feel like making your own?
- About a 1/2 yard each of a cotton print and a cotton flannel (45″ wide)
- Scissors -or- a rotary cutter
- Yard stick
- Marking tool
- Optional: About a 1/2 yard of trim
- Measure and cut two 9″ strips from each fabric.
- Sew the two strips of cotton print and the two strips of flannel together along one short side, making a long strip of each fabric.
- Fold the fabric in half along the seam and measure out 36″. Mark and cut so you will have a 72″ strip of each fabric.
- Press the seams open.
- Put your strips good sides together and iron. (I found this helpful since it makes sure that both pieces are flat and the heat also makes the two pieces of fabric cling to each other a bit.) Pin and sew. If you are doing trim on the ends sew along both long sides with a 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving the last few inches unsewn as well as about a 2″ gap for turning. If you’re not bothering with trim, just sew all around, again leaving a 2″ gap for turning.
- If you’re doing trim: Pull back the top piece of fabric on each end. Line the trim up with the edge of the bottom piece of fabric. Lay the top piece back in place, pin and sew along the sides and ends.
- Snip the corners of the scarf off (little diagonal cut) close to the stitching line. (This keeps there from being too much bulk in the corners and they will look nicer when right side out.) Turn the scarf right side out through the gap you left. Use a chopstick or something similiar to poke the corners out.
- Press the scarf with a hot iron for nice, crisp edges.
- Topstitch about 1/4″ from the edge all around.
P.S. If you want the trim along the long edges, you will need about 4 yards. Put it in between your fabric strips when you sew the sides.
I’d love to see if anybody makes one!
I am entirely too satisfied with myself.
These fabric belts are super fast and easy, and a great way to throw a little pattern into your outfits or draw attention to your waist if that’s your inclination. I started making these as a way to get rid of some of my stash and I got a little addicted. They are also suuuuper cheap to make, which is always awesome. These instructions make a belt about 3″ wide, but you can adjust the fabric width is you want.
Before you start, measure around your waist where you want the belt to sit. Add about 10 inches. Then gather up your supplies. You will need:
Fold your fabric in half widthwise and trim a sort of leafy shaped point. The shape is totally up to you, this will be the little fold over bits on the ends. Use the first one as a template for the ends of both fabric strips and the fusible interfacing.
Wow, I am terrible at updating. (I think I smell a resolution.) To make up for it, here’s a tutorial!
You will need:
-Wooden doll head (the kind with the flattened bottom). I used one with a diameter of about 2.5 inches, but you can scale up or down as you like.
-Felt of fleece for the body plus scraps for clothes, tummies, etc
-Fine tip permaneant marker
-Fabric marking tool
-Hot glue gun
-Ribbon or small scale trim
-2 pipe cleaners
-Other bits for decoration (beads, ribbon roses, etc)
1. Lightly sand the wooden dolls head and wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. Paint. If your piece has a hole in the bottom, stick a chopstick in there so you don’t get paint on your fingers. Set aside to dry.
2. Print out the pattern on cardstock and cut out. (Scale as you need to using the 1 inch mark at the bottom.) Layer two pieces of felt or fleece and trace the pattern. Pin and sew directly on the line.
3. Trim away the extra fabric, leaving a small seam allowance. You can either turn the body right side out or leave the seam allowance on the outside. (If you leave it on the outside make sure to trace with something that will either disappear or that can be removed, like an air soluable makrer.)
4. If you want you can use pipecleaners to make the toy posable. Use one for both legs and one for both arms, bending as needed and folding each end over several times to make a bit of a lump for each hand and foot. Put the pipecleaner in the legs and stuff firmly, moving on to the body. I found that using a pencil or paintbrush handle helps. Put the pipecleaner in the arms and stuff these firmly as well, continuing up to the neck. With a needle and thread, sew a running stitch around the neck opening. Pull tight and secure.
5. Make sure the head is dry before attaching. Put a good amount of hot glue on the flat part and squish it straight down onto the neck. Hold in place for a minute or two to let the glue set a bit.
6. Use markers and more paint to add facial features. You can also glue on bits of felt or yarn to make ears, hair, etc.
7. Glue some trim around the neck to hide the seam. Add clothing, embroidery, or other trims.
Skeleton Gent’s hat is made from a long strip of felt rolled tightly and secured and then glued on to a felt circle and trimmed. You can make a little bowler hat in a similiar way by cutting a circle and gathering it (like a fabric yo yo). Stuff it before pulling tight and securing it and glue to a felt circle for a brim.
- Styrofoam balls (I used 3″, but you can use whatever size you like)
- Butter knife
- White and black paint
- Red sequins and pins
Start by cutting a small slice off the bottom of the ball with your butter knife.
Cut another slice parallel to your first, at about a 45 degree angle to the last, making the front and sides rounded and the back squared off. This makes your jaw line.
Flip your little skull over and use the handle of the butter knife to make a jaw. Press in with the handle. Come close to were the chin is and along the sides you made with your last slices.
Use your pencil to make the facial features. Press the eraser end of the pencil in to the styrofoam where you want the eyes and move it in small circles to make the eye sockets. Use the pointed end of the pencil to make nostrils and the press in the teeth. Press the eraser straight in on either end of the mouth.
Sand along the edges of your cuts to smooth them down and make them look more natural. I painted my skulls to make them less shiny and see-through. If you’re really impatient you can blast it with a hair dryer to dry it. Use black paint to highlight the eyes, nostrils, and mouth. I also put a red sequin into each eye socket to make it look more eerie, just stick a pin through the center of each sequin and press it in with the pencil eraser. Now you can use it however you like.