Archive for tutorials

Nifty Thrifty: Attack of the Thrift People

September 10, 2011 clothes, nifty thrifty, skirts, tutorials No comments
I’ve gushed about thrifted textiles before and how wonderful they are if you sew as a source of plentiful and super cheap fabric. Where else can you get five or six yards of lovely fabric for just a few dollars? Thrifted sheets are especially radical if you like full skirts, which I do, because they’re large enough that you don’t have to do a lot of annoying piecing. Added bonus: they’re already hemmed, which means less hemming for you. This is awesome beause hemming sucks. Case in point:
I made this full wrap skirt with contrasting tie waist in about an hour. Don’t let anyone tell you it doesn’t pay off to be cheap and lazy.
Do you want to make your own? You’ll need:
A sheet
Coordinating cotton (about 3/8 of a yard for 45″ wide fabric)
Matching thread
Optional: Tape measure
If you have a wrap skirt you like already, you can just use that as a pattern. If not,  all you need to make your own pattern is a tape measure and a little math. (Just a little, I promise.) A wrap skirt is basically just a modified circle skirt, so you only need two measurements: around your waist where you want the skirt to sit and the length you want the skirt. Multiply your waist measurement by 1.5 to accomodate the overlap, because  flashing people on windy days is bad. You’ll then half that measurement since your fabric will be folded in half.
For example, if you have a 32″ waist:
 32 x 1.5 = 48
48 / 2 = 24
So if you have a 32 inch waist, the top curve of your pattern should be at least 24″ long. The shape we’re working with is a fourth of a circle, so multiply this measurement by 4 to get the entire circumfrence of the circle.
24 x 4 = 96
Divide this number by 6.28 to find the radius of your cirlce. (You can also use this handy calculator.) Since you have a good amount of overlap, you can round the measurement to the nearest whole number to make measuring easier. We’ll  call this final measurement “W“.
96 / 6.28 = about 15″
Determine the length you want the skirt and add 1″ for your hem. We’ll call this measurement “L“.
Now we’re done with math! Fold your sheet in half long ways, so the top and the bottom meet. Your measurements are going to be made from the top corner of the folded edge (see the red circle in the diagram below). From this corner, measure out “W” and then “L” along both sides. Also measure “W” and “L” from this corner along several points in the middle part of the fabric, and connect to draw the top and bottom of the skirt. Pin and cut through both layers of fabric.


You’ll also need to two 5″ wide strips of coordinating 45″ cotton fabric. The easiest way to do this is to just snip into the selvage (the woven edge on the fabric) and then tear along the length of the fabric. Then measure down 5″, make another snip, and tear. Less time cutting and you get nice, straight pieces. Sew the pieces together along one short edge, so you have a piece measuring about 90″ x 5″. (The strip needs to be long enough to wrap around your waist twice and tie. If two pieces isn’t long enough, just attach an additional strip.)
Line up the center of your waistband and the center of the skirt with good sides facing. Pin and sew the waistband to the top edge of the skirt. (The straight sides should already have the sheet’s exisisting hem, so no need to bother hemming them.) The waistband will be longer than the top of the skirt; this extra fabric will become the ties.
Iron the waistband flat, pressing the seam allowance to the waistband side.
Fold the waistband in half good sides together. Sew along the open edges with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Stop at the edge of the skirt.
I chose to make the ends of my ties into a point, but you can do whatever shape you like. Just be sure to cut away any excess fabric.
Turn right side out and press. You should have a raw, unstictched edge where the waistband is attached to the skirt along only one side. Press this edge under 1/2″. Fold the edge over with the wrong sides of the waistband facing. Line the folded edge up with your waistband seam. Pin in place and topstitch close to edge.
Now just press and stitch a double 1/2″ hem along the bottom and you’re done!
If there are any questions, I’m happy to help. I’d also to love to see any skirts that are made using this tutorial. If you’d like to share a picture of your skirt you can link in the comments below or email me at kittyzilla@handmadestuffs.com.

Five and a Tutorial

November 16, 2010 30 for 30, tutorials 2 comments

Day five and it’s the first time wearing this recently thrifted skirt. I love the color!

I also love my scarf. Here, look closer and be amazed.

I got the fabric at Cottage Quilts on a trip to Fresno to visit my mom. I love the retro inspired print and it is complemented nicely by the pale blue pompom trim. Feel like making your own?

You need:
- About a 1/2 yard each of a cotton print and a cotton flannel (45″ wide)
- Thread
- Scissors -or- a rotary cutter
- Yard stick
- Marking tool
- Optional: About a 1/2 yard of trim

- Measure and cut two 9″ strips from each fabric.
- Sew the two strips of cotton print and the two strips of flannel together along one short side, making a long strip of each fabric.
- Fold the fabric in half along the seam and measure out 36″. Mark and cut so you will have a 72″ strip of each fabric.
- Press the seams open.
- Put your strips good sides together and iron. (I found this helpful since it makes sure that both pieces are flat and the heat also makes the two pieces of fabric cling to each other a bit.) Pin and sew. If you are doing trim on the ends sew along both long sides with a 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving the last few inches unsewn as well as about a 2″ gap for turning. If you’re not bothering with trim, just sew all around, again leaving a 2″ gap for turning.
- If you’re doing trim: Pull back the top piece of fabric on each end. Line the trim up with the edge of the bottom piece of fabric. Lay the top piece back in place, pin and sew along the sides and ends.

- Snip the corners of the scarf off (little diagonal cut) close to the stitching line. (This keeps there from being too much bulk in the corners and they will look nicer when right side out.) Turn the scarf right side out through the gap you left. Use a chopstick or something similiar to poke the corners out.
- Press the scarf with a hot iron for nice, crisp edges.
- Topstitch about 1/4″ from the edge all around.

P.S. If you want the trim along the long edges, you will need about 4 yards. Put it in between your fabric strips when you sew the sides.

I’d love to see if anybody makes one!

Sometimes I Am a Genius

November 8, 2010 scarf, style, tutorials 4 comments
I can’t believe it took me this long to think of this, actually. I’ve mentioned that I frequently have to hem up skirts I get at the thrift store. Because everyone else is too tall and not because I am kind of short. Anyway, I got this adorable skirt over the weekend that was perfect except for being about a foot too long. The solution to what I could do with the extra fabric just popped into my head.
The bottom hem leaves on side already finished. All I have to do is press and sew a small hem on the cut edge.

I am entirely too satisfied with myself.

Fabric Belt

October 12, 2010 handmade, tutorials 2 comments

These fabric belts are super fast and easy, and a great way to throw a little pattern into your outfits or draw attention to your waist if that’s your inclination. I started making these as a way to get rid of some of my stash and I got a little addicted. They are also suuuuper cheap to make, which is always awesome. These instructions make a belt about 3″ wide, but you can adjust the fabric width is you want.

Before you start, measure around your waist where you want the belt to sit. Add about 10 inches. Then gather up your supplies. You will need:

- Two strips of fabric measuring 4″ wide by the length you determined. (If your fabric isn’t long enough,  just piece two bits together.)
- Fusible interfacing 3″ wide by the length you determined less 1″. (For example, if the length you determined is 40″, you want to cut your fusible at 39″.)
- A wooden or plastic ring. I used a shower curtain ring that came in a pack of 12 for like $1.50. Purse hardware or decorative belt buckles would also work well.
- Big huge snaps
- Matching thread
- Monster needle
- Marker
- Iron

Fold your fabric in half widthwise and trim a sort of leafy shaped point. The shape is totally up to you, this will be the little fold over bits on the ends. Use the first one as a template for the ends of both fabric strips and the fusible interfacing.

Center the interfacing onto the back side of one of the fabric strips and iron in place. Pin the fabric strips right sides together and sew together with a 1/2″ seam, leaving a 2″ gap for turning. (Sew right along the edge of the interfacing so it is not caught in your seam.)
Before turning, trim down the seam allowance on both tips. This will keep there from being too much bulky fabric. Turn right side out through the gap. Use a chopstick to push the seams out from the inside and press the edges with a hot iron. (It helps to kind of roll the edges in between your fingers before pressing.)
Once the belt is all pressed and pretty, wrap it around your waist and feed the ends through your ring, folding the belt back on itself. (Look at the picture at the top for reference.) Play with it until your sides are even, mark where each tip ends with a pin and remove from the ring. Fold one side over the ring, matching the end to where you marked with the pin.
Make several small stitches on each side, trapping the ring. (Since you are going through four layers of fabric and 2 of interfacing, this is where a monster needle comes in handy. I use an upholstry needle.)
Fold the other side of your belt over the ring, making sure your flaps are on the same side. Mark where the fabric folds over the ring and measure about 1″ away. Stitch the male part of the snap in place (the one with the sticking out part in the middle), centering on the fabric.
Color the sticky out part of the snap with a marker. (See how mine is blue?) While the ink is still wet, fold over and mark where the other side of the snap should go. Stich the other side of the snap in place. To take the belt on and off, just wrap pull through the ring and and snap.
I want to try one with some trim around the edges; I think ric-rac would be really cute. You can also sew a cute button and buttonhole instead of snaps.

Another Tutorial

January 6, 2009 skeleton, toy, tutorials, wooden doll head No comments

Wow, I am terrible at updating. (I think I smell a resolution.) To make up for it, here’s a tutorial!

You will need:
-Wooden doll head (the kind with the flattened bottom). I used one with a diameter of about 2.5 inches, but you can scale up or down as you like.
-Felt of fleece for the body plus scraps for clothes, tummies, etc
-Acrylic paint
-Paintbrush
-Fine tip permaneant marker
-Fabric marking tool
-Stuffing
-Matching thread
-Sharp scissors
-Hot glue gun
-Sandpaper
-Ribbon or small scale trim
-2 pipe cleaners
-Other bits for decoration (beads, ribbon roses, etc)

Steps:
1. Lightly sand the wooden dolls head and wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. Paint. If your piece has a hole in the bottom, stick a chopstick in there so you don’t get paint on your fingers. Set aside to dry.
2. Print out the pattern on cardstock and cut out. (Scale as you need to using the 1 inch mark at the bottom.) Layer two pieces of felt or fleece and trace the pattern. Pin and sew directly on the line.
3. Trim away the extra fabric, leaving a small seam allowance. You can either turn the body right side out or leave the seam allowance on the outside. (If you leave it on the outside make sure to trace with something that will either disappear or that can be removed, like an air soluable makrer.)
4. If you want you can use pipecleaners to make the toy posable. Use one for both legs and one for both arms, bending as needed and folding each end over several times to make a bit of a lump for each hand and foot. Put the pipecleaner in the legs and stuff firmly, moving on to the body. I found that using a pencil or paintbrush handle helps. Put the pipecleaner in the arms and stuff these firmly as well, continuing up to the neck. With a needle and thread, sew a running stitch around the neck opening. Pull tight and secure.
5. Make sure the head is dry before attaching. Put a good amount of hot glue on the flat part and squish it straight down onto the neck. Hold in place for a minute or two to let the glue set a bit.
6. Use markers and more paint to add facial features. You can also glue on bits of felt or yarn to make ears, hair, etc.
7. Glue some trim around the neck to hide the seam. Add clothing, embroidery, or other trims.

Other Stuff:
Skeleton Gent’s hat is made from a long strip of felt rolled tightly and secured and then glued on to a felt circle and trimmed. You can make a little bowler hat in a similiar way by cutting a circle and gathering it (like a fabric yo yo). Stuff it before pulling tight and securing it and glue to a felt circle for a brim.

Styrofoam Skulls

October 13, 2008 crafts, halloween, skull, tutorials No comments

I made these little guys today. They’ll be going on a Halloween wreath I think.

You’ll need:
- Styrofoam balls (I used 3″, but you can use whatever size you like)
- Butter knife
- Pencil
- White and black paint
- Red sequins and pins
- Paintbrush
- Sandpaper

Start by cutting a small slice off the bottom of the ball with your butter knife.

Cut another slice parallel to your first, at about a 45 degree angle to the last, making the front and sides rounded and the back squared off. This makes your jaw line.

Set the ball so it’s resting flat on the surface made by the second cut. Make a slice on each side, perpendicular to the first two slices. This makes the sides of your head.

Flip your little skull over and use the handle of the butter knife to make a jaw. Press in with the handle. Come close to were the chin is and along the sides you made with your last slices.

Use your pencil to make the facial features. Press the eraser end of the pencil in to the styrofoam where you want the eyes and move it in small circles to make the eye sockets. Use the pointed end of the pencil to make nostrils and the press in the teeth. Press the eraser straight in on either end of the mouth.

Sand along the edges of your cuts to smooth them down and make them look more natural. I painted my skulls to make them less shiny and see-through. If you’re really impatient you can blast it with a hair dryer to dry it. Use black paint to highlight the eyes, nostrils, and mouth. I also put a red sequin into each eye socket to make it look more eerie, just stick a pin through the center of each sequin and press it in with the pencil eraser. Now you can use it however you like.